Panasonic LUMIX G85 Shooting Experience Huge Bang For The Buck

Posted Feb. 13th, 2017 by Daniel J. Cox

Editors Note: Under the heading of no surprises I want everybody who reads this blog to know that I’m what is called a Panasonic Lumix Luminary. In other words, I do get compensated a small stipend each year for working with Panasonic. However, I can tell you straight up, the small amount of money they pay me is not even 1/10th of 1% of my annual income which is derived from our NE Photo Tours and our editorial and commercial photography sales. I had an unofficial relationship with Nikon for almost 40 years and today Nikon Ambassadors and Canon Explorers of light make a mid five figure income from their respective programs. Would anybody in their right mind (Me) have given up a relationship like that if I didn’t’ believe in what Panasonic was doing? I can assure you, no amount of money can buy my loyalty and I’ll leave it at that. In the future I’ll make sure I include this information on all major Lumix reviews.

Sincerely, Daniel J. Cox

Panasonic LUMIX G85 Shooting Experience

This past fall and early winter have given us a couple of new and exciting additions to the Micro Four Thirds world in the form of the Lumix G80/85 and the Olympus OM-D EM-1 Mark ll. Just for clarification, the Lumix G85 is the model sold in North America and the G80 is sold in Europe.

Sandhill cranes silhouetted in colors of the setting sun. Bosque del Apache NWR, New Mexico. Lumix G85 with Leica 100-400mm

Both Lumix and Olympus bodies are innovative from a technology perspective, but the G85 fits the average user’s needs more economically in a way that only Panasonic is consistently doing—giving photographers great tools with durability and professional aptitude at affordable prices. And it’s the qualities of the G85/G80 I’m excited to share with you in this Blog post.

A Review Based on My Kind of Photography

Keep in mind that my reviews of a particular camera are obviously from my own personal perspective based on how I use the camera. I won’t be getting into minute details unless those details affect how the camera performs in the situations I use it in. For more information on each and every possibility you should check out DPReview’s review of the Lumix G80/85.

I’ve been shooting the G85 now for a little over three months. In that time I’ve had a chance to get a solid feel for this wonderfully compact, sturdy advanced enthusiast’s camera. In short, it handles exceptionally well, has some of Panasonic’s newest technologies, and all at a price that won’t bother most photographer’s spouses. Just think how nice it will be not having to sneak another camera in under your jacket:) Yes, I’m talking to you.

The First Unboxing and Under the Hood

Let’s start with the obvious—when you pull this camera out of the box. First of all, like all the MFT cameras before it, the G85 is small and compact. Even so, it has a solid feel. Before the G85 there was the G7, a somewhat similar MFT camera missing many of the great new features of the G85. Many photographers criticized the G7 as feeling too plasticky, a bit too light, and seriously underwhelming in its ability to instill confidence in its durability. So Panasonic did what they’ve been doing since jumping into building still photo and video cameras, they made serious improvements in the follow-up model which is the G85.

A Metal Chassis

The first thing Panasonic did was replace the front plate with a solid aluminum frame. The G85 has much more metal, and though I never did have an issue of any kind with my G7, many feel the added weight and heft of the new metal body is a welcomed addition. It comes with a small price in weight but one could argue it’s worth the cost.

Lumix G85’s foundation is based on a full die-cast magnesium body. It has a metal lens mount as well as a metal tripod socket. Photo courtesy of Imaging Resource. Visit their site for additional reviews on the new Lumix G85.

Serious Weather Sealing

One of the most popular advances photographers of all levels seem to really love is better weather sealing. The G85 ups that in a substantial way. The body and most lenses are now weather sealed to the point that you should have no issues staying out in a light rain. I’m not sure about a pouring rain—haven’t tested it yet—but no longer do we have to worry about a light drizzle or shower. Here’s my fellow Lumix shooter Mark Toal showing how much water the G85 can take.

Magnetic Electronic Shutter

The best way to explain the benefit of the new electromagnetic shutter is to compare it with that of the G7. The Lumix G7 had a shutter that was more traditional in design, and there were some complaints that the G7 suffered from so-called “shutter shock.” For those not familiar with shutter shock, it’s simply the vibration the camera’s shutter mechanism creates as it opens and closes during the exposure.

To solve this vexing problem, Panasonic engineers developed what I believe is a totally new shutter mechanism that’s triggered by magnets. It’s complicated to explain but suffice it to say it works extremely well. I’ve not experienced any shutter shock myself and have heard virtually nothing from others across the net regarding the same issue.

Though it’s impossible to really see how a new shutter like this works, the one thing that is obvious is the incredibly soft—nearly whisper silent–sound when taking the picture. It was the first thing I noticed when I pushed the shutter button for the first time. It’s so quiet you almost will never need the electronic version of Silent Shutter. The normal magnetic shutter gives this camera the feel of a finely tuned Swiss watch and is nearly as quiet as a soft breeze.

In-body Image Stabilization (IBIS)

In the G85 we get the most sought after technology of virtually anything being developed in photography today, in-body image stabilization (IBIS). For IBIS we have to bow down to the folks at Olympus. Yes, IBIS is part of the new Lumix G85. However, without Olympus pioneering this phenomenal concept, none of us would even know what we were missing. That’s just one little example of why I’m so excited about the world of Micro Four Thirds. Both Panasonic and Olympus are innovating in ways the larger companies seemingly only read about in science fiction novels.

With the new G85, you get the benefit of Panasonic’s Dual IS which is the combination of IBIS working in tandem with the traditional optical IS in Lumix lenses. With both of them functioning as one, Panasonic suggests we can shoot as much as five stops below the age old rule of “shutter speed equal to or greater than the lens you’re using.” In other words, if using the Leica 100-400mm at 400mm, which equals 800mm full frame equivalent, you can effectively shoot handheld at approximately 1/25th of a second. And yes, I’ve done just that. Dual IS is revolutionizing low-light, super telephoto photography, and the G85 is a great new tool that has it. Recently, on February 8, 2017, Panasonic offered a firmware update that substantially improves Dual IS to Dual IS 2 and gives the new 100-400mm lens even slower shutter speed capabilities.

Here’s a link with detailed info on how to update firmware

Here’s a link for the G85 firmware update. You need to scroll way down to the Firmware and Drivers section, close to the bottom of the page—screenshot of the section you want to find below.

This is the section you’re looking for towards the bottom of the page.

16 MP Micro Four Thirds CMOS Sensor

The big news about the G85’s sensor is its lack of a low pass filter. 16 megapixels seems small in today’s world of 36 and 48 megapixels full frame sensors from the big boys. But I’ve been shooting a GH4 for almost three years and it too has a 16-megapixel sensor. I’m doing prints from the GH4 as large as 40×60 inches and they’re stunning. But that’s for a future Blog post. Suffice it to say that I regularly print much, much larger than 90% of all photographers. I’m fortunate to have a 44-inch printer so I have the luxury of big prints without having to hire out.

Raven Spirit, a fine art print 24×36 inches in size without the frame, hanging in our home in Bozeman, Montana.

The question I ask all my students is, “What are you doing with your pictures?” If it’s anything less than billboards, you most likely won’t be disappointed in the images you get from a 16-megapixel sensor. The one caveat is low light which we’ll discuss shortly. The G85’s 16-megapixel sensor is excellent and it’s great to have the additional sharpness removing the low pass filter provides.

Low Light Is Micro Four Thirds’ One Achilles, Heel

At this point in time, Micro Four Thirds cameras all have less ability to give us images without some noise with long exposures and high ISO’s. I wished it weren’t true but it’s a fact of the MFT system. At least for now. But the G85 does very well in low light. I often shoot it at 1600 ISO and have shot it as high at 3200 ISO. I will agree that there is more noise at these speeds than I like to see but good software solves the problem most the time.

Starry skies over the African veld in Samburu NP, Kenya. G85 20 second exposure, 12mm F/1.4 Leica lens wide open at 3200 ISO. This is a JPEG that was processed in DXO Optics Pro 11.

I’m a huge fan of DXO Optics Pro 11 which has what I consider the best noise removal tool of any I’ve tried. You can clean up a lot of noise with good software. I will warn you that DXO Optics Pro 11 does not yet support the G85. I heard that’s supposed to change some time in February 2017, and once that happens I’ll be back in high spirits concerning noise removal. Thankfully using DXO to remove noise is a once in awhile thing so it’s really not a huge deal.

Even so, once again, you have to know what you’re going to use your pictures for. Even without DXO, the G85 images at 3200 ISO would look fine for social media. But you have to decide. Owning a full frame system that shoots amazing low light images is substantially more expensive, with monstrous lenses in size and weight and more importantly, cost. The benefits of a full frame sensor is dramatically negated by the benefits I’m getting with MFT.

Exposure Mode Dial

Like all of Panasonic’s cameras, the G85 harkens back to the past while embracing the future. On the top right side, you have the simple to use and easy to grasp Mode Dial. Whether it’s switching from 4K Video to Program Mode, it’s a simple twist of a tried and true wheel, with ruffed up edges that are easy to grasp. All the common options are on the main Mode Dial including Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, Manual, and Movies. Other options include Custom 1 and Custom 2 along with iA (Intelligent Auto) Scene Mode and Creative Mode. I won’t be going into details of what all these options can do since I use only a few such as Program, Aperture Property, Shutter Priority, and Manual and once awhile Intelligent Auto (iA). iA is a great option that allows me to hand my camera over to a stranger who I may want to photograph me and my wife just being tourists. That stranger will have no idea my camera is set to back button AF or other custom settings they may need to adjust. iA saves the day by turning a highly sophisticated pro-oriented camera into a virtual point and shoot.

Unlike the GH4, there is no lock for the Mode Dial, but so far that’s not been an issue. Not once in the three months of shooting has the Mode Dial been accidentally moved from the option I’ve selected. I must admit I love the lock on the GH4, but thankfully it doesn’t seem to be needed on the G85.

Drive Mode Dial

On the top left side of the G85 is the Drive Mode Dial. Once again easy to find, easy to use, and doesn’t get moved easily. Here you have the ability to switch from Single, High-Speed Multiple FPS, 4K Photo Mode, Bracketing, Time Lapse, and Remote Timer. This well placed, knurled knob is a welcomed feature. Panasonic definitely seems to have a great understanding of just the right amount of combining the old with the new. They seem to have an innate ability to integrate older styled retro dials and knobs with new push buttons and touch screens and do it in ways that makes a lot of sense. Retro can look nice, but I prefer a combination of the old with the new, each doing what makes capturing images fast and efficient. Fuji and Olympus have some great retro bodies from a visual standpoint, but only Panasonic is doing retro when there’s a need and using high tech, like a touchscreen, because it’s a better idea.

Front Dial

The front dial on the G85 is something I’ve really come to love. I have to admit it had to grow on me, and for the first two months of shooting the G85, I was convinced I wanted the front dial version of the GH4. During my recent 12 days in Kenya, I slowly began to change my mind. I’ve been convinced the GH4 controls are the best of any camera out there, and I still feel that’s the case with the placement of the WB, ISO, and +/- EV controls. But having the front dial directly under the shutter button, as it is on the G85, is absolutely brilliant. Once again we have to pay homage to Olympus for this feature which I’m pretty sure first showed up on the OM-D EM-1. Whatever camera in the Olympus line introduced this new design idea, it was a great new concept and one I’ve come to highly appreciate.

Why do I like this so much? It’s because of the ability to set it up to control my exposure composition so I can quickly adjust my histogram before I press the shutter button. As many of you know who read this Blog, I’m a huge fan of Program Mode. Yes, I said Program Mode. Believe me, I’ve had this discussion with my students in places like a Tundra Buggy where there are other pros or advanced enthusiasts around. When I go into my “Shoot Program” routine the snickers and guffaws ensue in mass. But suffice it to say, if you don’t understand the power of the modern day Program Mode, you haven’t read your camera manual. Nikon pioneered Flexible Program Mode by allowing us to change what the camera chooses to any shutter speed or aperture the camera provides. Thankfully, Panasonic Lumix cameras work in exactly the same way. If the camera chooses 1/250th of a second at F/8 and I have a F/2.8 lens, all I have to do to get a faster shutter speed is spin the rear dial to the right. Doing so, the shutter speed goes up and the aperture follows. If I want better depth of field, I spin the rear dial to the left, the aperture goes down and the shutter speed follows. In short, they work in perfect tandem with each other. You can read a more detailed description of Program Mode with Nikon and Lumix cameras by following this link to Photography Using Program Mode.

One caveat to Program Mode in some other cameras—and you will have to test for yourself if you’re not using Lumix—is whether or not the camera resets itself to what it wants when the camera goes to sleep. This does not happen with Lumix or Nikon but is an issue with Canon and Olympus. I’m not sure about Sony. But if your camera resets itself when it goes to sleep then you lose the Aperture/Shutter speed combination you thought you set. This is a problem if you’re shooting birds for example. Let’s say you’re shooting a bald eagle in a tree and you want the decent depth of field to have good sharpness from beak to tail. He’s just sitting there so you take your photo at 1/250th at F/8. Once you have that shot you then move the dial to the right for a faster shutter speed in anticipation of the eagle eventually flying. You’re standing there shooting the breeze with a photo buddy when the eagle finally gets ready to fly, and when you reach for your now sleeping camera, it wakes to a shutter speed and aperture that may not be the speed you set it to stop the action. I’ve been testing Program on the Olympus and the camera doesn’t go to sleep for quite some time, but when it finally does, this changing of the selected shutter speed and aperture is modified to what the camera wants.

Rear Dial

Pretty simple functionality regarding the rear dial which we covered above. It has other options other than the Flexible Program Mode mentioned, but for me, it’s mostly to control shutter speed and aperture.

Other Buttons, Levers, Doors

The top deck has the Movie button and an additional Fn button that I’ve set up for unlocking +/- Exposure Compensation in case I want to disengage Exposure Composition on the front dial. The front dial can be bumped quite easily and some may find they want the lock of the Fn button for +/- EV options. Either way, it too can be set up for almost anything.

On/Off Switch

Placed right beneath the Mode Dial and is similar to most the other Lumix cameras which I think is a big plus. You turn the camera on by pushing it forward and off by bringing it back. Not much here to say other than it’s easy to access with your right hand, unlike others who put their on/off switches either on the base of the camera or on the left side where it takes two hands to start shooting. Seems simple but Panasonic is doing this right.

SD Card Access

Panasonic finally changed the placement of the SD card door, and I’m now happy to say it’s placed on the right side of the handgrip, just like most other cameras made. Simple but very positive update just like the GH4.

Focus Mode Lever

In the days of shooting Nikons, I almost never set my cameras to AF-S. It was always set to AF-C for numerous reasons, but the main one being my desire to capture action if it happened unexpectedly. Unfortunately, switching from AF-S to AF-C on Nikon cameras is still extremely difficult. Even on the newest Nikon, the AF-S and AF-C buttons are on the front of the camera on the left lower side of the lens mount and impossible to access in a moment’s notice.

On the Lumix cameras, the AF-S/AF-C switch is right below the top deck, backside of the camera, encircling the AF/AE lock button. I use Back Button Focus on all my Lumix cameras so my thumb is constantly right above the AF-S/AF-C switch and in a position to move the dial instantly.

I still most often shoot with AF-C, but I think we all know there are times it’s nice to have the confirmation of a tiny beep when AF-S has connected. Having the ability to move between the two positions is a nice option but not totally necessary if you use Back Button AF.

AF/AE Lock Button

This little button encircled by the Focus Mode lever gives up more power and efficiency than most realize. Back in 1989, Canon introduced the exceptionally great idea of disconnecting focus from the front shutter button and allowing us to place AF activation on the rear of the camera. Nikon followed suit with the F5, and virtually all camera makers have seen the light and provide something similar. Lumix is no exception, and with the AF/AE button, we have the ability to program it to act as our AF Start button. This is such an essential part of any serious camera today. Back Button AF is all about giving us the ability to choose the exact spot within the frame we want in focus. Pointing the AF sensor at the subject, pushing the Back Button AF to engage focus, letting up to lock that focus, then recomposing, makes it much easier to create well composed, interesting photographs. With Back Button AF there is no longer any need to focus on your subject, push the shutter button half way down, recompose, and shoot. Back Button AF simplifies focus and recomposing dramatically.

To get the G85 set up for Back Button AF, you first have to turn off the front shutter AF. To do this you simply go into the Menu to the Custom screen (wrench with C). Shutter AF is on the first page of the Menu, last item on the screen, 1/9 pages shown on the far right. Move the selection over to the Shutter AF, select it, and turn it to OFF. Next, look two options up from the Shutter AF and you’ll see AF/AE is to setup the AE/AF Lock Button to AF. Set these custom functions and you’re now ready for the easiest, most effective us of your AF system.

Other Back of the Camera Buttons

The G85 has what’s become Panasonic’s standardized button layout for most of their second tier cameras. On the right side of the back of the body, there is Quick Menu, Display, Review, ISO, WB, AF Pattern, and three different Fn buttons that allow almost limitless custom settings.

The format and placement of these buttons are very straightforward which is a good thing. However, they’re also very easy to accidentally push without knowing you did so, throwing your camera into changes you don’t expect.

While on my recent trip to Kenya, it finally became clear that the placement of these buttons is very difficult for some people. I’ve spent a great deal time with our NE Explorers trying to help them figure out which of these buttons they accidentally hit and how to remove the unintended changes. Thankfully, Lumix has a very helpful feature in the custom Fn button to “Lock Cursor Pad” which I will describe momentarily.

NE Explorers with their Lumix cameras in Madagascar. Lots of models, many with the buttons on the back of the camera I just discussed. This is just one of our many groups that now shoot Lumix, and having access to so many users gives me a unique perspective to understand what is working and what is not. The back buttons are not working, unfortunately.

Fn Buttons Galore

Customizing the G85 by way of function buttons (Fn) is almost limitless. Olympus is given a lot of credit for being able to modify their camera settings in almost unthinkable ways, but Panasonic is equally customizable. The number of Fn buttons on the G85 is ELEVEN. Yes, 11 different Fn buttons for changing the way your camera operates, so it’s more intuitive for YOU. I’m not going to describe all that each button can do except one, the Fn11 button. Why the Fn11 button? Because it helps solve the accidental button pushing I mentioned above.

Fn button diagram in the Menu of the G85 showing the many different Fn buttons and what they do in the default mode. There are numerous more options for each button you select.

The Fn11 button is located in the very center of the Rear Dial. By setting this button to lock the Cursor Pad you help solve the issue of hitting buttons you don’t intend to push. One downside, however, is each time you want to change the options on the Cursor Pad like WB, ISO, AF Pattern, Menu Set, or the Fn3 button, you have to unlock the Fn11 button on top of the Main Rear dial. Not a huge issue but something that takes a bit more time if you’re having to work quickly. Once I get this set up for our Explorers it’s a feature they very much appreciate. The Quick Menu button then becomes the go-to option for making changes if they don’t want to unlock the back Cursor Pad.

Finally, if the rear buttons is not your cup of tea there is the GH4 and now the GH5 that places the most important buttons on the camera’s top deck. These two cameras incorporate the ultimate design for quick changes and ease of use.

Rear LCD

The G85 has a flip-out LCD that allows you to angle it up, down, and forward. Some other cameras either have an LCD that doesn’t move at all or one that just angles up or down. I prefer the version Lumix gives us which allows for more overall options. One of those options is Touchscreen technology.

Like all Lumix cameras, the G85 has a fabulous touch sensitive LCD. Once you get used to maneuvering a camera via touch, you won’t remember how you lived without it. Ok, you might be different than me, but that’s how I feel about the superb touchscreen technology Panasonic has pioneered. Like video capture in still photography cameras, touchscreens will eventually be on all models. But for right now Panasonic is the king when it comes to quality touchscreen technology that helps us move through the Menu options at lighting speed.

My favorite of all touchscreen options is the ability to move the AF sensor with my thumb across the back LCD. Even better is the ability to do the same when the camera is placed to my eye. It’s without a doubt the fastest way to move any AF sensor I’ve ever experienced. One slight downside is how easy you can move the AF sensor by accidentally touching your nose to the screen. To solve this you can turn the rear LCD Touch capabilities off. The touchscreen takes a bit of practice for AF, but I feel it’s well worth it.

One simple option I do that helps keep the sensor in a position I expect is to touch the middle of the screen with my shooting hand’s thumb as I pull the camera to my eye for each new session of pictures. By doing this, I move the AF sensor to the middle position, no matter where it may have gotten knocked off too. After awhile this becomes a habit and solves the issue of “Do you know where your AF sensor spot is?”

Another option is to lock the AF spot in place. When shooting with the Back Button AF, I’ll often place the AF sensor in the middle of the LCD/viewfinder and leave it there, using the Back Button AF to focus, compose, and shoot, release it to lock focus, and then recompose and shoot. This is exactly the way I operated my Nikons for over two decades. In other words, we can replicate the same shooting experience we’ve had with both Nikon and Canon.

Electronic Viewfinder AKA EVF

Electronic viewfinders have always been a criticism of all the new mirrorless cameras. Although the G85 has a reasonable EVF, it’s not the experience you get when looking through a traditional glass viewfinder of a DSLR. That said, there are some definite advantages when shooting in very dark light; an electronic viewfinder is actually easier to see. In very bright light, it sometimes darkens too much for easy viewing so it’s a trade-off. There may be a custom setting for having the camera not darken the LCD so much. If anyone knows of this option I would love to see the answer in the comments.

Another benefit to an electronic viewfinder is it shows you a wealth of information. For me the most important viewable item is the histogram. To have the histogram visible before I shoot, is one of the best tools mirrorless cameras have given us. It’s absolutely indispensable. The number of items you have visual access of are too many to document, but they are fabulous to have.

High-Speed Shooting

The G85 has some impressive high-speed shooting options, but there are limitations. And because of this, it’s not my first camera I reach for when action is the primary goal. There is Super High Speed, High Speed, Middle Speed, and Low Speed.

In Super High Speed, at 40FPS, you only get JPEGs. In High Speed, what I typically shoot most the time, you get as many as 9FPS in AFS or 6FPS in AF-C. Middle Speed is 6FPS for AF-S and AF-C and Low Speed is 2FPS in both AF-S and AF-C. Below is information from the Lumix G85.

Page 115 from the G85 manual showing the different AF settings and burst rate speeds.

Economy Mode

One of the biggest complaints of any mirrorless camera typically has to do with how long the battery lasts, or I should say doesn’t last. There are two major reasons why all mirrorless cameras have less than optimum battery life. First is the fact that the bodies are smaller than the large traditional DSLRs. The second is that all mirrorless cameras have to run a mini TV screen either in the viewfinder or the rear LCD. Running these video screens takes power and with that the smaller batteries seem to be at a disadvantage compared to a traditional DSLR.

To help solve this issue Panasonic has introduced a new feature in the G85 that none of their other cameras have. It’s called Economy Mode. Economy Mode simply turns the camera’s LVF off more frequently which you can control by setting a specified amount of time you want. I’ve heard photographers shooting as many as 900 images per battery with this feature turned on. I’ve not had a chance to test this yet so I can’t claim to know, but it’s worth being aware of and trying for yourself. My way of solving the battery issue is to carry 3-4 batteries for a full day’s shoot. Typically I won’t get into even the third battery, but I have them if needed.

This amount of battery consumption could be considered a downside, but frankly there are so many upsides to these Lumix mirrorless cameras that I just accept the shorter battery life.

Wi-Fi Connectivity

Having the ability to get your photos over to your phone or tablet on a moment’s notice is a nice option. The G85 gives you this ability and makes it even easier than earlier Lumix models. Along with the wireless transfer option that’s part of the Panasonic Image App, you can also record GPS locations by way of your phone, and then transfer the GPS data to your camera. The App syncs the date and time of the GPS info with the date and time of your camera and the photos shot. It’s a nice feature but unfortunately transferring this data from your cell phone takes much too long. I would love to see Panasonic speed the GPS transfer speed up.

Notice I’ve selected the G85 to be hooked up, not my normal router for the Internet that my iPad is normally hooked to.

One of the most important things to know about setting up the Panasonic Image App is that before you can see your camera you have to connect the G85 to the wireless router. When I first started using Lumix wireless transfer I was regularly frustrated. I solved that problem by remembering that before even starting your Panasonic Image App, you need to open the Settings in the menu of your mobile device. Make sure your camera’s Wi-Fi is on. You do that by making sure the G85’s touchscreen is on, tapping on the little < tab on the right side of LCD. That < is a tab for opening additional items; tap on it, and at the top right corner of the LCD you’ll see a wireless icon that looks like what we have on a Mac laptop. It looks like a pizza:) and similar to the image you see shown to the right. Tap on it and it will bring you to the next screen that asks if this is a New Connection or Select Destination from History.

This is the screen you will see if you’ve never connected before.

If you had hooked up THE SAME CAMERA before, it would be the second option, but if it’s the first time, then you want the New Connection tab. After you select one of the two, the next screen asks you what you want to do. The photo below shows the options possible.

Options for Remote Shooting and Viewing, Playback on TV, Send Images While Recording, and Send Images Stored in Camera. The last Send Images Stored In Camera is what most people want to get their images out ASAP.

That should get you connected to your G85 or any other Lumix camera. All Lumix models have the same wireless connection, so this will work for other models as well. Below is a great video by Lumix rep and friend Mark Toal showing how the wireless system works.

G85 Menu

One of the main criticisms of virtually all mirrorless cameras, whether MFT, APS-C, or full frame models, is the menu system layout and navigation. Panasonic has followed a similar layout and design to what Nikon uses and I’m a big fan of both systems. The fonts and color design of Panasonic’s is a bit larger and easier to see with possibly a few more options than Nikon’s system, but I feel Lumix has the easiest menu to see and navigate. The G85’s larger menu text allows me to navigate without having to reach for my reading glasses. That’s a big plus, especially in cold winter conditions. I don’t have to tell anybody who wears glasses what a pain it is to need your eyewear in situations with rain and snow.

You can also see the menu from within the EVF. Meaning if it’s really bright out and I’m having a difficult time seeing the changes I want to implement, I’ll often navigate the EVF with the camera to my eye. Once again, not all systems allow this.

Quick Menu Fn2 Button

The Quick Menu—also labeled as the Fn2 button—is a faster way to navigate some Menu options. You can activate the Quick Menu via the Fn2 button on the back of the camera which shows Image Size/Quality, WB, ISO, and many others. The mode or display style the camera is in will determine settings shown. It works relatively well but is not nearly as comprehensive as the main Menu. Olympus has done something similar with their Super Control Panel that has many more options than our Quick Menu option on the Panasonic cameras. Something similar would be a nice addition to our Lumix system.

4K Photo Technology Tools

Back in the summer of 2015, Panasonic revolutionized the industry by releasing what they call 4K Photo Technology. 4K Photo is the ability to shoot 4K video, which has 8-megapixel stills in each frame of the video footage and extract those stills, one frame at a time, from the moving video footage. What makes this so interesting is the 4K video is capturing 8-megapixel JPEGs at 30 frames per second. You can imagine the possibilities of capturing just the right image at 30FPS. Not only did this open the door for capturing that special photo, but it also ushered in other tools that use the same basic technology.

4K Focus Stacking – Camera shoots numerous images with different focus points and puts them all together in one JPEG
4K Post Focus – Ability to choose the spot you want to be in focus after the image has been taken, final image is JPEG
4K Photo Mode – Camera shoots at 30FPS at any shutter speed you choose, light dependent, gives you 8-megapixel JPEGS

Auto Focus Technology

Depth from Defocus Contrast AF

Another new technology Panasonic is pioneering is something they call Depth From Defocus (DFD). DFD technology calculates the direction and the amount to move the lens focus in a single movement by predicting that movement with two images that have different depth of field. Below is a video showing more about DFD.

The Lumix AF system is also based on Contrast Detection AF as opposed to Phase Detection AF. There are some inherent benefits to both systems, but Contrast Detection AF is generally considered more accurate. Why? Because it makes its decision about focus accuracy directly on the sensor. The downside is it’s always been slower in Predictive AF mode. But Panasonic’s ongoing DFD Technology is changing all that. I’ve not had a chance to put the G85 through the Speeding Pooch AF Test yet, but I’ll be doing that in the next month or so. I’m waiting do the Speeding Pooch AF Test with the new GH5, G85, and the Olympus OM-D EM-1. But even now I’m finding that the G85 is doing extremely well with relatively fast moving subjects like birds in flight.

Lappet-faced vulture, Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. Lumix G85 with Leica 100-400mm zoom

One of the other benefits to Contrast Detection AF is there’s no need for this crazy tool in most high-end Phase Detection cameras known as AF Micro Adjustment. This whole AF Micro Adjustment idea was first implemented by Canon due to the terrible either front or back focus issues Canon EOS 1 Mark III experienced. It took them forever to get it figured out, and if I recall correctly, the problems only ended once Canon released the Mark lV. Nikon also had their problems with back focus issues that I dealt with for two years in their D2H and D2X cameras. Eventually, both Nikon and Canon added the Micro Adjustment AF option to all their high-end bodies.

Adjusting the AF is just not an issue with Contrast Detection AF or at least not that I’ve experienced. Like MFT in general, DFD is new, and as they continue to update this technology, it just keeps getting better. Soon—possibly even now with the GH5—we will have the speed of Predictive AF combined with the accuracy of Contrast Detection AF. That will be different than every other major camera company on the market (even Olympus uses Phase Detection AF), and eventually, it will be a clear advantage. As I said, with the coming GH5 it may already have that advantage. As I like to say, only time will tell.

Built-in Flash

Something I’ve come to absolutely love on all the Lumix cameras is the built-in flash. Many think it’s a gimmick but I regularly use the G85’s built-in flash to brighten shadows of people wearing hats or put a catch light in a bird’s eye up to 15-20 yards away. And even more importantly, using it to trigger the FL-360 off camera strobe when shooting macro photos. It’s a great tool and a good reason why I’ll most likely always have at least one Lumix camera with a built-in flash in my camera bag.

This is a photo of my favorite macro setup. The camera is a GH4, but the G85 would work exactly the same as far as the how I use the wireless flash, the FL-360 with a diffuser. The large red light on the lens is a headlamp and I use this for illuminating the subject, in dark conditions, for quick AF.

AF Patterns

Panasonic has some of the best thought-out AF pattern options of any camera I’ve used. Below is the list with my thoughts on each and a photo of what they look like on the back LCD.

1-Area is my main go-to AF pattern. I regularly change its size but generally use it in about the size of a dime.
Pinpoint AF is very often handy when shooting through the thick grass like we often have in Africa. You can’t use Pinpoint AF or AF-C, only AFS. If the camera is in AFS/AFF in the Menu you have to switch it to AFS only or the Pinpoint AF will not be accessible and will always show as grayed out.
Custom Multi gives you the ability to create your own Multi Pattern. This can be nice for flying birds giving you a larger target.
49-Area is basically where the entire EVF is selected and has 49 AF points placed around the entire area. Great option for flying birds against the sky where nothing will come between you and your subject in flight. Not good for almost anything else.
Tracking AF: This option is something I’ve not performed any serious tests with. I do need to give this a try since in theory, it could be fabulous. One of my concerns is that Nikon used to have the same feature and it didn’t work very well. I understand Nikon has improved their version greatly. The theory is that whatever you first focus on, the camera actually remembers the color of the subject and follows that color wherever it goes in the viewfinder. However, with my Nikons, they used to grab colors in the background if they were the same as the bird or subject I was trying to track.
Face/Eye Detection: I love this AF setting for events. I often do conferences or other types of events for Polar Bears International where I’m mainly shooting people, scientists, etc. This setting grabs the faces easily and makes capturing images of people quick and efficient.

Panorama Mode

This is an amazing tool that I absolutely love and use quite regularly. For those who have shot panos with their phones, you know how fun this can be, and the G85 works very similar to the way our phones shoot panoramas. Shooting panos is as simple as putting the G85 in Pano mode which then shows you an arrow pointing the direction to move the camera while taking the picture. This feature is not new to the Lumix line and when I show this feature to our Explorers it becomes addictive.

A lone acacia tree stands tall on the plains of the Serengeti, Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. G85 with 12-35mm Panoramic Mode

There is one caveat, however, though I’ve made some gorgeous images with Panoramic Mode, this technology on the Lumix cameras does need some additional love. It works properly maybe 75% of the time. It seems that any scene with a very contrasty line, the camera has difficulty merging the images properly and will show severe stitch marks. This issue has gotten better over time; the first camera I tried it in was the Lumix LX100 which had the same issue. The GX8 and G85 work much better than the LX100, but I still get a few duds that show the stitching. I’m hopeful Panasonic can continue to make this even better since it really is so much fun to use and people absolutely love this feature.

Conclusion

So there you have it. That’s my take on the new Panasonic Lumix G85 and to put it into three simple words: this camera rocks. It gives you a lot of technology that produces exceptionally high-quality stills and video. I’m now shooting two of these bad boys and will continue to do so until the GH5 arrives and possibly even after.

Below are a couple of publications that have used my work produced with all MFT Lumix bodies. You can also view more of my work published by Professional Photographers of America on their website at http://ppmag.com/gallery/daniel-j-cox.

Nature’s Best 2016

Nature’s Best 2016

Outdoor Photographer July 2016

Outdoor Photographer July 2016

Outdoor Photographer July 2016

©Professional Photographer magazine, February 2017, reprinted with permission

©Professional Photographer magazine, February 2017, reprinted with permission

©Professional Photographer magazine, February 2017, reprinted with permission

Tagged with: camera camera review equipment review G80 G85 Lumix lumix g80 Lumix G85 MFT Micro 4/3 Micro 4/3 Micro Four Thirds

Add Your Voice!

There are 90 comments on this post…

ChrisOn Jan. 17th, 2023 (11 months ago)

I am more of a Canon user myself, but I have just completed a project where a colleague was using the G85 and I must say the image quality was impressive!

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FarsonOn Oct. 7th, 2021

The shared 16-MP sensor has good dynamic range at low ISO, but not even the GX8 with its lower ISO, better color sensitivity, and higher SNR 18% can improve on it, and there s practically no difference at higher ISOs, save for a slight improvement in noise levels and the resulting higher low-light ISO score, equivalent to around just +0.3EV. While there s a slight benefit for users at base ISO in terms of color and lower noise levels, there s not much to choose from in overall sensor performance between the G80, the GX80, and the high-end GX8 .

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Edward AndersonOn Mar. 2nd, 2018

Hi Daniel, – Thanks for a fantastic article…. really appreciated. I have just completed a Safari in Bots and SA and have managed to take some great pictures thanks to your guide and also the fabulous 35-100mm f2.8 zoom. There is however one area that I am struggling and that is birds. Despite using the pinpoint focus method, and having the aperture wide open, I was unable to capture great clarity in the feathers. If I zoom in even x2 or x4 the feathers are blurry. I was wondering if you had different settings for your bird photos and other wildlife photos or what other pointers you might be able to give me.

Thanks again for the awesome blog post!

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Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 2nd, 2018

Hello Edward, First off let me say you should not have any issues getting extremely sharp feather detail with the G85 and the 35-100mm lens. There are a couple of other things you need to consider.

1). What shutter speed were you shooting at?
2). What ISO were you using?
3). When you say you enlarge to 2X and 4X, are you referring to looking at them while still in the camera?

Some things to remember. When shooting any lens there is a very old rule of thumb that suggests you use a shutter speed equal to or greater than the length of the lens your using. If you were out at 100mm that would mean your actually shooting 200mm and thus, for the sharpest image possible, 1/250th. of a second would be preferred. This is what you would need if the bird was moving at all.

The ISO would allow you to either shoot at the preferred shutter speed or not and finally, it’s always best to check your images at 100% or 1:1 on a computer screen. You mention the 2X and 4X setting which suggests you were reviewing them on the camera.

The other thing I would like to add is I very seldom use the “Pinpoint AF”. I only use it when there are lots of sticks and grass or other things that could block the Single AF box I typically use. That said, I’m not suggesting the Pinpoint AF was your issue, it should still be accurate but it does take much longer for the camera to acquire focus when shooting on Pinpoint AF. Is it possible the bird moved out of the focus area before you pushed the shutter button?

Srinivasan IyengarOn Dec. 16th, 2017

Hi Daniel,

I sold all my Nikon equipment and switched to MFT for reasons of weight and lack of IBIS.

I see noise in iso 200 photos with the G85, especially in scenes with low clouds or foggy skies like we get in Alaska around the glaciers. There is also severe chroma noise in the water when photographing fishing villages.

Would you be able to suggest any techniques to avoid these?

My Nikon images of similar areas are free of luminance or chroma noise and seem to have a lot more latitude in dynamic range, even with an APS-C sensor in an older D7000.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,
Srini

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Daniel J. CoxOn Dec. 16th, 2017

Srini, My number one suggestion for tweaking MFT files is hands down DXO PhotoLab. It has the best ability of any software I’ve used to clean up and noise without effecting sharpness and details and has a great tool for Chroma noise as well. That said, I shoot in Alaska a great deal and have not experienced the issues you’ve suggested at lower ISO’s such as 200. It may be just my lack of pixel peeping. All I know is that I still earn a major chunk of my annual income selling my work and I’ve not had an editor complain yet about the quality of the files I’m getting from any of my upper end Lumix cameras. Hope this helps.

Lila CleminshawOn Dec. 2nd, 2017

Hi Dan,
Do you have any updated information about operating the G85 in cold temperatures? I’m in Montana also (Missoula) and love to take ice photos. I know you’ll have had to travel to the Southern Hemisphere for this to have happened!
Thank you for such a thorough review.
Lila

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Daniel J. CoxOn Dec. 5th, 2017

Lila, I’ve shot the G85 in temps as low as -5F. Beyond that I can’t say but as long as you keep extra batteries in your pocket, next to your body, not outside pocket of coat or pants, I think you will be fine. I do hope to doo more cold weather tests however. Just haven’t been anywhere really cold since the G85 came out. Hope this helps.

Markus BolligerOn Oct. 9th, 2017

Great review, Daniel, very informative and comprehensive!

After two years shooting the Sony A7rII I would like to go back to mFT. Yes, the image quality delivered by the Sony fullframe sensor is beyond doubt better than everything mFT can produce.

BUT: On hiking tours offroad, especially in the mountains, and in bad weather, you need a compact, rel. lightweight equipment which does the job done, without having to change lenses all the time just to exhaust the physical limits of the sensor in your very expensive camera.

With the release of three new Panleica zoom lenses f/2.8-4.0 the system becomes even more attractive to me (9-18, 12-60, and 50-100mm). Completed with a Macro and a fast prime lens I would get a very practical package for my nature- and landscape photography.

But I am indetermined concerning the body – which one would you recommend if still photography is the main purpose?
a) Lumix G85
b) Lumix GH5
c) Olympus E-M1 Mk II

And what is the reason you have chosen Panasonic, and not Olympus?

Thank you very much for any suggestion!

With best regards from Switzerland,

Markus

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Joao TroplesOn Sep. 9th, 2017

Wonderful information!! Thank you !!! I just bought this camera, unfortunately it has a 3 seconds lag. Literally I have to wait 3 seconds for the picture that i just took to show up. I chatted with Panasonic and they said the camera needed to be repaired. Got a brand new one and it is doing the same thing. I am so frustrated!!! Daniel Cox, does your camera do the same thing??? Is it normal for this camera to do this???? Is it a setting that comes on and I should turn it off??
I would sure appreciate some input.
Thank you so much!

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Daniel J. CoxOn Sep. 9th, 2017

Joao, sorry to hear you’re having problems. Please clarify, when you say “it has a 3 second lag” you’re referring to how long it takes before you can review the photo on the rear LCD? Typically, when a person refers to lag they are referring to pressing the shutter and having the camera fire. If I understand you correctly, you want to see the image sooner. Next question, are you waiting for the image to come up AUTOMATICALLY or are you pressing the Preview button to see it? My only suggestion is to try the Auto Review which you find in Custom Settings menu, page 7/9. Auto Review has two options. Duration and Playback. Select Duration and go in and set this to a specific time. Default is 2 seconds. I turn mine to OFF. I had to say this should not effect the length of time the image takes to show up. This setting refers to the length of tine the image stay on the back of the LCD. However, it’s worth going in to take a look and make some changes to see if this makes a difference. Let me know how it goes.

Barry GrahamOn Sep. 6th, 2017

Hi Daniel,

I have just purchased a G80 (I am in the UK) having used Nikon DSLRs for years. There’s a pretty steep learning curve regarding the menu but I’m getting there slowly!

I have assigned the ‘AF/AE LOCK’ button to back button focussing as it is my preferred method and something I used on my Nikons. What I am struggling with now is how to lock exposure when I recompose after focussing. Can you help me out please?

Many thanks

Barry

Reply

Daniel J. CoxOn Sep. 6th, 2017

Barry, good to have you part of the community. I understand your desire to find a way to lock your exposure, I used to shoot that way a great deal myself. Based on your desire to lock your exposure, that suggests you’re shooting in some sort of auto setting. Which is also the way I work. So let me offer a suggestion that works really well for me.

My personal preference is to shoot in Program Mode. I talk more about that in the post titled Photography Using Program Mode. When using Program I make certain I have the histogram option in the menu turned on. You should find the Histogram option on page 4/9 in the Custom Settings menu. I then make sure the front dial is set to Exposure Compensation which is done by going to Custom Functions Menu page 8/9 and choose Dial Set. Choose Exposure Compensation option which takes you to a visual that shows Front Dial and Back Dial. I choose Front Dial which now allows me to change my Exposure Compensation by simply reaching up with my shutter finger to dial in either plus or minus exposures. I do this as I watch my histogram making sure I have a proper histogram gives me a perfect exposure without having to do an Exposure Lock.

Regarding the second question you emailed me about, your AF-C not working even though you have the AF lever set to AF-C. I have to say I’m stumped. Are you possibly setup in 6K Photo Mode on the left top dial? Make sure you’re in Continues High Burt mode, again left dial on top of camera. Check these and let me know and if you are already in Continues High. If so I have to dig deeper for an answer. Let me know.
Barry GrahamOn Sep. 10th, 2017

Hi Daniel,

Thank you for your reply.

You are correct that I have been shooting in an automatic mode; I have mainly been using Aperture Priority mode. I shall try the Program mode for the next month and see how I get on.

I already have my G80 set for the front dial to choose Exposure Compensation but I don’t have the Histogram enabled – I have been using the ‘Zebra Patterning’ to help me not to blow the highlights.

How does the histogram help with exposure lock?

For example: If I focus on a face in front of a bright window and move the camera, say to the right, so that the face is offset then clearly the exposure will change if the camera is set to one of the AE modes. The histogram will then only tell me what settings are required in order to correctly expose the whole scene won’t it? If I correctly expose the whole scene (according to the Histogram) that will leave the face underexposed in my experience.

If conversely, I focus on the face and expose correctly on it using the Histogram and then reframe the photo as above, when I move the camera the AE mode (P, S or A) again throws the face into underexposure.

Sorry if I am missing something here.

The 2nd point I made about AF-C not working seems to have rectified itself, or I have inadvertently altered a menu setting which has solved the problem.

I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions.

Best wishes,

Barry
Daniel J. CoxOn Sep. 10th, 2017

The way I would use the histogram Barry, in the situation you describe, is I would all the backlight window to go off the right side, keeping the mid tone face towards the middle of the histogram. In this situation, you would ignore the overexposure of the bright background. A quick adjustment of the +/- EV would open the scene up without having to resort to locking exposure.

I suppose the other way that would work is to setup the Fn3 button for AE Lock. That seems a bit convoluted to Push the AE/AF- Lock button to focus and lock then move down to the Fn3 button to lock Exposures. Have you tried holding the shutter button half way done for AE Lock after you’ve taken the AF off of it?

The other option that should be in the menu and isn’t is to set the AE/AF Lock up for AF Activation and Exposure Lock at the same time. Will pass this idea on to Panasonic.
Barry GrahamOn Sep. 11th, 2017

Hi Daniel,

In the situation with the face in front of the window it seems to me that the histogram is just a distraction as I am, in fact, simply exposing the face correctly using the +/- EV simply by looking at the resulting picture through the EVF or LCD screen. I can do this but can’t see how the histogram helps me as it isn’t giving me much of a clue about the correct exposure on the face – unless I’m missing something blindingly obvious of course.

Prior to contacting you the 1st time I did try assigning an additional Fn button to lock exposure but it seemed to take over the focus and exposure – maybe I need to experiment more with the settings.

I have tried holding down the shutter button half way but this has no effect – it seems once AF is removed from this button that it merely becomes a tool for releasing the shutter – again maybe there is a setting I am missing.

I think your suggestion that it would be helpful to have the option to set up the AE/AF button for back button focussing AND EL at the same time is a great idea. It would certainly solve this particular issue but I can see circumstances where it might be a hindrance too.

I think my preference would be for the shutter button to hold exposure when back button focussing is activated – this, I believe, is available on certain Nikon & Canon cameras.

Once again, thank you for your time.

Best wishes

Barry

The other option that should be in the menu and isn’t is to set the AE/AF Lock up for AF Activation and Exposure Lock at the same time. Will pass this idea on to Panasonic.
Daniel J. CoxOn Sep. 11th, 2017

Barry, I guess for this particular situation, it would seem the best option would A). change the camera back to Shutter AF/On and the AE/AF Lock back to what it’s supposed to do. B). Switch to Manual Exposure, exposer for the face and use the Back Button AF technique. The idea of having the Shutter button lock exposure when pushed half way down, even though the AF has been disable from the Shutter button is a good one. I’ll pass this suggestion on to the Lumix engineers.
Barry GrahamOn Sep. 11th, 2017

Thanks Daniel

I think Manyal Mode is the easier and quickest of the 2 options you presented so I will do that and leave BBF on.
It would be good to get feedback from LUMIX regarding their thoughts about EL on the shutter button when using BBF – is there any way that I could be informed of what they say please.

I believe you may have my email address so I am quite happy for you or LUMIX to contact me via this method in order to update me

Regards

Barry
Barry GrahamOn Sep. 22nd, 2017

I’ve been scouring the internet and I think the situation is this:
Hi Daniel,

With AF/AE button assigned to AF-On the shutter pressed halfway does in fact lock exposure. The problem is that the EVF and LCD screen don’t show that that is the case as the image remains the same when the camera is pointed at a lighter or darker area giving the impression that the exposure is terribly wrong. However if you look at the exposure settings whilst moving the camera with the shutter half-pressed they remain static. Take the picture and it is in fact properly exposed.

It would be very helpful if the EVF and LCD reflected exactly what is happening but I can live with that as long as I know my subject is going to remain properly exposed when I reframe the picture.

I have tried turning the ‘Constant Preview’ setting to ‘On’ but it seems that this. only works in Manual mode.

Hope this is of some use to you.

Regards

Barry
Daniel J. CoxOn Sep. 22nd, 2017

Thanks for that insight Barry. I’m grateful for the help.

Madison CooperOn Aug. 29th, 2017

I’m so envious of your African tours. My dream trip is ngorongoro crater. Anyway, I’m going to buy a s Panasonic camera in the next week or two. I’ve looked at the G85 and the GH5. Please just tell me, is the GH5 features better than the G85? Not that much? Save the $1000 and get the G85, I’ll be better off paying up the $1000 and getting the GH5 future proofing me for a year or 2? You get the idea of what I’m asking you. Don’t be a Luminary and give me the PC answer. Give it to me straight. Not sure I want to ask you what would you do, but in a sense do you feel you would be better off getting the GH5?

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Alan KirkbyOn Aug. 15th, 2017

Hi Daniel

I just bought a GX80 with the 12-60 kit lens and although in all respects I love it there’s one thing causing me a little concern and that’s battery life. The standard Panasonic battery is down to one bar after about 150 shots, far less than the 300 quoted. I have a second generic battery with a higher 1700 mah rating and that puts me in the 200’s. Any comments?

Regards
Alan

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Daniel J. CoxOn Aug. 15th, 2017

Alan, let me check with my colleagues at Panasoinc. I’m guessing they are going to suggest you have a defective battery. I have to admit, I’m not sure exactly what I’ve been getting on my G85’s. I just plugged a battery in to get a fresh charge and plan to drain it with a test as I st here in my hotel room in Anchroage. Will let you know wht I find out.
Daniel J. CoxOn Aug. 17th, 2017

Alan, I don’t know what to tell you on this issue. I ran a test in my hotel room this past week where I shot the G85 on AF-S, Continues High Burst and I shot over 2000 exposures before the first bar went away on the battery indicator. Now.. I realize that just holding down the Shutter Button and firing away is different than actually shooting throughout a typical daily shoot, but… I have no way to measure it in an effective manner other than what I did. I do know the G85 gets fewer frames per battery than say the GH5 or GH4 but it was never so bad that I felt I had to really keep track of it. I just make sure I always carry a spare battery. If it were me and your battery is still under warranty, I would send it in for a replacement. Sorry I can’t be more help but that’s as good as I’ve got.

Emil blomkvistOn Aug. 11th, 2017

HEY, my name is Emil. I really liked your post!!!
I have one question that I hope you can answer. I’m using the g85 and love it: however, I am trying to use the defocus control to blur out the background in my photos. Can I do that on the g85? and how do I do that?

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Daniel J. CoxOn Aug. 11th, 2017

Emil, I’m sorry to have to tell you, I have no idea what you’re talking about. I’ve was unaware of any kind of Defocus Control but just to make sure I checked with my Panasonic colleagues, and I’m told there is o such option on the G85. I’m wondering if you’re getting Defocus Control confused with Depth From Defocus which is a software tool that helps the camera predict a moving subject in AF-C. Sorry, I can’t be more help. Thaks for stopping by to join the conversation.
Alan KirkbyOn Aug. 17th, 2017

In the basic Basic Operating instructions, page 25, “Taking a picture with a blurred background (Defocus control)” Is this what your’e looking for? It says:
In iA+ mode, press fn4 to display setting screen
Set the blurriness by rotating the rear dial

All it seems to do is what fn4 normally does i.e. allow you to change the aperture/shutter speed combination, which will affect the depth of field.
I can’t find any mode that combines two shots to give a blurred background like for instance on Fuji cameras.

Regards
Alan
Daniel J. CoxOn Aug. 17th, 2017

Alan, I’m starting to think you’re confusing Panasonic’s terminology “Defocus Control” with what is normally referred to as Depth of Field. On any camera, when you use a smaller aperture such as F/22 (F/22 is a smaller number since it’s actually a fraction) you get much more of the background behind your subject in focus. I think Panasonic manual you mentioned is referring to Depth of Field. If you open the Aperture up to F/4, much less of the background will be in focus. I’m checking with my Panasonic colleagues to see if there is some feature I don’t know of but I’m 98% confident that your referral to “Defocus Control” is actually good old, long been a part of every camera, Depth of Field. I will add to this once I hear from my colleagues at Panasonic.

matthew kennedyOn Jun. 12th, 2017

i hope you can help, i was at drumheller Alberta and got a litter over whelmed shooting some video at horsethieft canyon. always made the huge mistake of removing the battery with the camera still on and putting the new battery with the power switch still on. (((you can never remove the battery from the camera with the power on)))

i say huge mistake because it says in the manual to never do it because doing so can brick the camera. well sure enough now my camera is having performance issues. like lagging when i stop and start video, like a few seconds of lag god knows how photos will be effected.

anyways i tired taking the battery out and leaving out for like half a hour. that did not seem to help i was hoping the compositor or what ever would lose its charge and the camera would shut down fully and reset it self.

now that i think about it i dont think that can happen because it would have a back up battery on the mother broad. the camera is a tiny pc after all. any chance you have run into this and know of a fix or could you ask a Panasonic tech rep for me? i would my self but apparently amazon.ca is not a certifiable seller for Panasonic cameras so no warranty for me.

Reply

Daniel J. CoxOn Jun. 12th, 2017

Matthew,

I contacted one of my repair people at Lumix in the US and he’s never heard of any issues being created by taking a battery out of the camera before shutting the camera off. I’ve done this many times myself and have never had any problems. I personally think you are having problems with settings your unaware of. Unfortunately, without seeing the camera for myself I can’t even begin to suggest what those settings might be. The one thing you might want to do is RESET the camera back to factory settings. Go to Menu and navigate to the SETUP menu then look for RESET. This may fix your problems.

KafiOn Apr. 26th, 2017

Hi Daniel,
Thanks for the awesome review. I was almost ready to buy Sony 6300. After reading your blog, I am confused now. I’m just a travel photographer. I used Canon 70D but now I am searching light weight & better low light performer. So, for my requirement which one you suggest based on Sony 6300 vs Panasonic G85?

Reply

Daniel J. CoxOn Apr. 27th, 2017

Unfortunately Kafi, I’m not very familiar with the Sony equipment. The Sony having a bit of a larger sensor will most likely give it better low light performance. However, I get around a bit less that than stellar low light capabilities of the Lumix gear by using DXO Optics Pro 11. The benefits of the G85 is a huge assortment of professional grade lenses, wide to super telephoto. The G85’s slightly smaller sensor than the Sony 6500 allows for considerably smaller lenses, especially with telephoto options. Finally, I’ve used other Sony products and have others who can confirm that Sony has its issues with long-term durability and reliability. I’ve found the Lumix gear to be incredibly long lasting. Just this last week I dropped my G85 with the 12mm F/1.4 lens attached from 6 feet above the hard floor of our travel bus in Namibia. The road was so rough, I had set the camera above the seats in the overhead luggage area, the washboard roads intense and vicious vibration literally threw the camera out and it landed with a loud thud. I expected to pick it up to find some sort of damage to the lens, camera or both. Amazingly, it had no issues whatever. Could not believe it. In other words, Panasonic builds some incredibly strong and well-built equipment. It was my twenty-year experience with Panasonic fax machines in my office that made me think I may get similar durability benefits in their cameras. I was right based on the above experience as well as others over the past five years I’ve been shooting Lumix exclusively
VasuOn Jul. 27th, 2017

Hi, I am using a6300. It is excellent in low light, but comfortable to hold only with small lenses. It feels front heavy with 18-105 f4 lens (which weighs less that 500gm). Gives hand cramps sometimes. Currently using only 35 f1.8. Tried half leather grip as well as meike battery grip. Still not comfortable. Have a Panasonic FZ200, amazing grip for such a small camera (though not in the same league as a6300 or g80/85). I expect the g85 grip is likely to be more comfortable than a6300 with telephoto lenses.

Mike HardyOn Apr. 26th, 2017

Great review, Daniel, which contributed towards me buying this camera. Can you recommend any good reviews or guides on its VIDEO capabilities? I actually purchased this camera for UNDERWATER video use, now that at least one company has a housing in production. I agree that the GH4/GH5 offer the more professional video tool options but I am banking on that IBIS being the
prizewinner for underwater videography, leaving very little to choose in terms of underwater video between the GH5 and the G80/85

More power to your lens…

Reply

Daniel J. CoxOn May. 5th, 2017

Mike, unfortunately, I don’t have any suggestions on video info on the G85/G80. I apologize. Will keep my eyes peeled and lost back if I find something.

Glenn AsakawaOn Apr. 18th, 2017

Great detailed review! And looks like you sort of agree with me on the placement of the front dial. It’s so much more natural to slip your finger in front of the shutter button and move the dial in the same direction as the back dial rather than on top of the body behind the shutter release. It’s a minor change but really big in my mind. Thanks again for your input!

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Daniel J. CoxOn Apr. 18th, 2017

I do prefer the G85 dial on the Front Glen. But the other buttons on the GH5, ISO WB and +/- EV are much superior to the same on the G85. I hate to critique the GH5’s dials etc for fear Panasonic may go too far and change the top three buttons I mentioned above. Would love to see them keep the current GH5 layout with the small change of doing the front dial like we have on the G85. Thaks for stopping by to add your voice Glenn
Glenn AsakawaOn Apr. 19th, 2017

Looking over my collection of Lumix cameras, it seems the shutter button dial collar (as it is on the G85) is implemented on most of the Lumix line, including the GX8 and G7 and GX85. I do agree that those other three buttons on top of the GH4 and GH5 are very convenient. Too bad they couldn’t design that dial collar into the new GH5. Btw…This has to be the mother of all G85 reviews!

Marko KoskenojaOn Apr. 16th, 2017

An excellent thorough review Daniel.

I bought the G85 with the 12-60 kit lens based on your review and I’m very happy.

Any thoughts or recommendations on the new Panasonic 100-300 mm II lens? I think the 100-400mm would be too large and expensive for my needs.

I bought and sold a used 45-175mm Panasonic lens because 1) it was not weatherproof 2) I wanted more reach and 3) Panasonic suggested a firmware update due in Feb 2016 would enable Dual IS 2 but that never happened. Your reviews seem to suggest that having Dual IS 2 working on the camera and lens combination is the way to go.

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Len GouldingOn Apr. 15th, 2017

Hi Dan

I’m looking for a camera + lens combination that will give good low noise at high ISO for bird photography..initially looked at Canon 7D ii and Nikon D500 then came across the G80.

Can you advise on the noise at High ISO with the G80

Kind regards

Len

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Daniel J. CoxOn Apr. 15th, 2017

Thaks for stopping by Len. The one issue we have with MFT cameras is the inability to shoot very high ISO’s. Of the three cameras you listed, I would venture to guess the Nikon D500 would be as much as one to two stops better low light performance over the Lumix G80. That said, I shoot the G85, US version of the G80, all the time at 1600 ISO. I will then take it into Lightroom to clean up the noise. I’m anxiously waiting for DXO Optics Pro to support the G85/G80 since their noise removal software is what I typically rely on for all my other MFT files. At this point. all the MFT cameras are going to do as well as the Canon or Nikon APS-C or Full Frame cameras but the gap is narrowing. I choose to shoot the MFT due to their affordability, especially when you consider the long lenses we have access to. It’s a fabulous system for bird photography.

Les CraneOn Mar. 19th, 2017

Thanks for your response to my previous question; you are THE expert in m43 bird photography!

As I practice with my new g80 and pan leica I keep encountering differences from the DSLR (Canon) world. Today I was trying to “find” a bird that was easy to see with my eye but hard to find in my evf. So I turned the manual focus ring and nothing happened. I was in AFC mode and had set AF+Manual to ON. Apparently this setup won’t do “full time manual override” while in continuous focus mode.

Do you know of a work around? Other than keep the camera in AFF?
Now I do notice that if you go into manual focus with the lever, back button focusing still works…it autofocuses, so maybe that’s what I’m looking for. It is a learning curve!
Tx

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Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 20th, 2017

Thanks Les. Not sure I’m THE EXPERT but I do love trying to get the results from MFT that I used to get from my Nikons of our fine feathered friends in flight. I have also noticed that I can’t seem to figureout how to get MF to work without either shutting AF OFF on the lens or as you suggested on the back of camera via the AFS/AFF switch. I’ve emailed one of the folks I work with at Panasoinc to get their input. A big part of the reason I’m uncertain myself is beause I almos never use MF any more. Once in awhile I do have an issue where the camera will not, for whatever reason, activate AF. It’s typcially due to a very bright background and the subejct in a much darker forground. To get the AF to ckick on I will oftgen point the camera at something much closer and in the same lgiht as that of the subject I’m trying to focus on. Then recompose by moving the camera and the AF sensor up to incude the subject I really want the photo of. This has always worked for reengaging the AF sensoer but I do relize it can be a pain in the keester. I had my Nikons do the same thing now and again and I have never been able to figure out why other than the background being the overrinding factor that confuses the AF sensors. Thakfully, this used to be a much more prevelant problem with all prior cameras to the G85. The G85 seems to have fixed it most of the time but I did run into myself just today. Hpe this helps and you can decipher my suggestion on how to wake the AF from it’s once in awhile stuper.

Gary S.On Mar. 16th, 2017

Hi Dan – One followup question that relates to operating temperature listed by Panasonic. I note that you and others are intrepid photographers and go out into very cold temperatures. With that in mind I noticed that Panasonic is listing a low operating temperature of 32F for the GH4 and G85 and 14F for the GH5. Can you explain what is going on here as I know cameras are being used below those temperatures? If it were just a battery thing I would imagine that the GH5 would have the same lower limit. I’m a bit confused on what the operating temperature means to the user. Hope you can answer this. Cheers.

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Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 16th, 2017

Gary,

I’ve used my GH4 in temps approaching 0F with no issues at all. I think the temps listed by Panasonic are to simply protect themselves. So far I’ve never had an issue but I must admit I’ve never had my Lumix cameras in temps as low as I’ve had my Nikons. But then Nikon never listed temps anywhere near what I shot their cameras in, -50F, either but they worked just fine. I’m hoping to eventually do an extremely cold soak test by way of our local university that has a cold chamber that gets equal to -50 and lower. Stay tuned.

VinceOn Mar. 14th, 2017

Many thanks for the information regarding the flexible program mode! I’ve avoided P as I thought it was a cut down Intelligent auto…. the ability tweak shutter speed OR aperture without changing mode is something I’ve wanted…but didn’t know it was there! Maybe I should RTFM more 🙂
Thanks again for the thorough review, I agree the G80/85 is a great camera.

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Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 14th, 2017

My pleasure Vince. Happy I could help and thanks for adding your voice to the conversation.

subroto mukerji (M, 67 years)On Mar. 13th, 2017

Great review, Dan. Thanks !! I use a Lumix GX1 (with an Olympus E-PL5 as a back up) and I deeply appreciate its ergonomics and IQ, especially with prime lenses like the Lumix 20mm f1.7 and OLY 45mm f1.8, and 45~150mm Lumix zoom (a great lens). Dumped my Nikon DSLRs AND CLUTCH OF LENSES WAY BACK IN 2013. When one considers that 6 years of further development have gone into the GH5, GX8, GX85 and G85, the mind boggles as to where SOTA is right now!
Unfortunately, India (I live in New Delhi, the capital) is a desert for LUMIX gear; I got my M43 equipment, including the GX1 kit (14-42mm non-power lens and 14mm f2.5) by sheer luck / persistent hunt for lightly used M43 gear. Olympus, by contrast, have a (somewhat subdued, true) sales network here and almost all their stuff is available / serviceable / reparable. Could and Mark put in a word on the behalf of us LUMIX-starved Indian photogs, please, to mighty, hearing-challenged PANASONIC? India is rightly perceived as a DSLR / smartphone market right now, but word of M43’s advantages has reached these shores and, as they say, the times they are a’changing 🙂
BTW, in case you didn’t know, India isn’t all starving, uneducated mendicants sleeping on beds of nails when they aren’t riding their elephants. This is a country going places with a large population of affluent citizens and well educated youngsters (as SILICON VALLEY knows only too well). The Panasonic brand name is everywhere but LUMIX is conspicuous by its absence 🙁

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Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 15th, 2017

Thanks for joining the discussion Subroto. Will do what I can to make a case for more Lumix opportunities in India. Keep the faith and good shooting.

LescraneOn Mar. 13th, 2017

Hi Dan,

You may have noticed that the g80/85 has a Focus Sensitivity setting that is not found on the GX 8. The manual seems to indicate that it relates to how strongly it attempts to lock on to a moving object vs. Release and go to another object. I haven’t made heads or tails of it and not had a chance to test it yet with my PL 100 -400.

Have you played with this setting on BIF shooting? Any thoughts? Issue was raised on a couple forums with conflicting ideas.

Thanks for the review. BTW I prefer the g80 to the gx8 with my long zoom. You had suggested that a SLR form factor might be easier to use.

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Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 15th, 2017

Thanks for the questions Lescrane. I have noticed the option for setting the AF Sensitivity. This is similar to Nikon’s AF Lock On feature. It’s a good idea. The way I’ve found it to work is this. When you move the setting to the + (plus) direction the AF becomes more sensitive to movement of the subject. In other words, the highest + setting allows the camera to adjust the AF at even the slightest change in movement of the subject. Adjusting the same setting to the – (minus) direction slows how quickly the AF detects motion.

So the question is; why would I want to make a change in AF Sensitivity? That all depends on what subject matter you’re shooting. For example if you’re shooting a football game (American football) and you’re concentrating on a running back coming out of the back field, you’re going to have other players coming after that running back. In other words there are going to be other players getting in the way. As you swing the camera, keeping the running back in the viewfinder, you don’t want the camera refocuing on each player that runs in front of your scene. You want the camera’s AF to STAY on the running back. That’s where AF Sensitivity comes in. Moving the AF Sensitiviuty in the + (plus) direction will make the camera respond to the other players running into the scene. You don’t want that to happen so you can adjust, either + or -, how sensitive the camera detets that new subject that runs into your scene. Nikon called it AF Lock On and it worked basically the same as the Lumix G85 setting.

Now lets apply this same idea to a wildlife situation, birds in flight for example. When I was shooting my Nikons I would turn the AF Lock On completely OFF when I was shooting birds against an unobstructed sky. Why? Becuase, since there was nothing to get in the way, no trees, no others birds, nothing between me and the bird in flight, I wanted the AF to change as quickly as possible so it could stay with the birds continual forward progress. The AF Sensitivity on the Lumix G85, should work in the same manner but I have to say I’ve not tried it yet. So time will tell but I can assure you that the feature is for exactluy what I’ve decribed and is something I’ll be testing in the future.

Hope this helps. Thaks for the question and joining the conversation.

Berton GregoryOn Mar. 11th, 2017

Hi Dan,
Many, many thanks for all the extremely valuable service you are doing by providing real user experience to those of us who seek field tested equipment advice for our needs. Photography is great, but becomes more costly as each year passes, so we need to search the internet for practical advice from someone other than non-user equipment reviewers in order to maximize our return for dollars.
I’m currently using an Olympus OM-D E-M5 with Olympus 75-300mm II lens for wildlife, primarily birding.
I’ve managed to get reasonably good results but I’m ready to upgrade. My objective is the Panasonic 100-400mm lens for extra reach, and likely the G85. I’m not financially able to do both at the same time, so I thought I would get the 100-400mm lens first, then later get the G85 (maybe GH5).
How do you think the Panasonic lens will work with the E-M5 during the interim period?
My thanks again,
Berton G.

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Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 15th, 2017

Berton, I wished I could give you positive encouragement regarding using the 100-400mm with the EM-5 but I’ve never tested them together. Based on the fact the lens works well with the original EM-1 I would guess it will be just fine with the EM-5. The OIS in the lens does an excellent job without IBIS on my GH4 so I’m confident it will make you happy until you can make a switch to one of the Panasonic Lumix bodies. Thanks for the kind comments and adding your voice to the Blog conversation.

Gary S.On Mar. 8th, 2017

Hi Dan – Seeing that you shoot in all types of environments and weather I’m wondering how the body and dial ergonomics of the G85 and GH4 perform in the cold winter? Any advantage of one over the other? In particular how do you make changes in photo modes with gloves(?) on?…Cheers, Gary

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Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 8th, 2017

Gary, Great question! I’ve become a big fan of the G85 but I have to say, I do find the GH4 easier to operate in cold conditions with gloves on. The new GH5 will be similar to the GH4. The GH5 has retained the same WB, ISO and Exposure Compensation button layout on the top deck just behind the shutter button. The top deck buttons on the Lumix top of the line cameras are much easier to navigate and use with gloves on compared to the so called Cursor Pad style of the G85 and all second tier Lumix cameras. I also feel the Cursor Pad is easily hit and buttons accidentally pushed without knowing you’ve done so, even without gloves on. I would be elated if we had similar button layout to the the GH4 and GH5 across all Lumix cameras.

Without a doubt, working cameras with gloves on is not an easy task but I’ve solved most of my issues by purchasing mid weight gloves with very supple leather. My favorites have always been Sealskinz and this is the most current version of the model I’ve used for years. This newest model also incorporates the ability to use a touch screen devices which is great for our Lumix cameras.

Ok, so those are my favorite for moderate cold, lets say 5-25 above F. But they won’t work in really, really cold weather like 0 to -25 even -50 below Zero, which I have shot in. For that kind of cold I use Canada Goose Down Gloves These are very cumbersome to work in but there is no photograph that’s worth loosing the tips of your fingers. I used to have a friend who shot in very cold weather and he would use fingerless gloves. He eventually lost all feelings in the tips of his fingers. I have students who swear that they can’t operate their cameras with gloves on because they can’t feel the buttons. But I ask them, “when you’re fingers are near frostbite and completely numb, can you feel the buttons then?” Of course they say no and I reply, “exactly, same with gloves on. Just practice more and you eventually get better at it. At least with gloves on you won’t damage your fingers.”
Gary S.On Mar. 10th, 2017

Thank you Dan. I very much appreciate you sharing your experiences through these blog posts…..Cheers! Gary
Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 10th, 2017

It’s my pleasure Gary. I’m also grateful for your interest in participating in the Blog discussions.

IlanOn Mar. 4th, 2017

Thank you for the detailed review. Have you looked at the Fuji X-t20 that has just been released and is at a similar price point?
I do have a Panasonic GM1 and a couple of lenses and would like to purchase another larger camera. I was looking at purchasing the G85, but now that the Fuji has been released I am torn between the two. While the Fuji has a smaller body which I prefer and larger sensor, and possibly nicer JPGs, the Panasonic has its pluses, especially the IBIS and the fact that the lenses are smaller and I have a couple already.
I shoot mainly stills but also some video.
What do you think?

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Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 4th, 2017

Ilan, I’ve not had a chance to review the Fuji yet. Hope to in the next few weeks but I can tell you the main reason I love the Micro Four Thirds cameras, Lumix in particular, is due to the size of lenses. I carried all the monstrous Nikon glass since about 1981. That included the 200-400mm, both the very old and current, as well as several different 600mm f/4s over the years. Fuji has some great things going for it but small lenses are not necessarily one of its advantages. I tested the Fuji 100-400mm and though it’s smaller than a Nikkor 600mm F/4 it’s still much larger than my 100-400mm Leica for the Lumix cameras. I guess if you shoot short glass, the whole lens discussion is not as big of an issue but when you’re working in the world of nature, where long lenses are a must, Panasonic has a serious advantage in my mind.

Gary S.On Mar. 3rd, 2017

Dan – Very nice review. With the GH4 prices coming down(new and used) how does the GH4 camera get positioned with the G80/85 from a bird photography and all around videography viewpoint? What would you consider to be the relative strengths and weaknesses of these two cameras? Cheers, Gary

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Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 4th, 2017

Gary, great to have you as part of the community. The biggest deal with the G85 is it’s In Camera Image Stabilization and it’s new Dual IS 2 technology. The GH4 will still give you better, pro options as far as video is concerned. However, the G85 is no slouch with video and will be fine for the vast majority of users. Here’s a great comparison of the two cameras by CameraDecision.com
Gary SOn Mar. 4th, 2017

Thank you Dan for the feedback and the “Camera Decision” link. The “Camera Decision” comparison seems to be either dated or erroneous in a couple of areas. It mentions that the G85/80 has advantages of focus stacking and smartphone control over the GH4. My understanding is that update 2.5 gave the GH4 4K photo modes and focus stacking among some other things. Also from videos I’ve seen the smartphone control seems to be there. Correct me if I’m wrong. There’s so many features with both of these cameras it makes my head spin.. Safe travels…Gary
Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 5th, 2017

Gary, thanks for pointing this out. I have to check my GH4 for focus stacking but I have to say I’ve not seen it. Will check for sure. As far as smartphone connection, the GH4 definitely does have it but that’s not new. It’s been there since I first bought my GH4’s. I’ll take a look at the cameradecision site again. I apologize if it wasn’t helpful. So hard to say on all of this stuff.

searunOn Mar. 1st, 2017

Thank you for the informative review. You helped me get over the hump, ordering a G85 this week. As it will be the first camera I have owned that will not accept either film or a CF card, I am pretty clueless on SD card specs. What card do I need? Thanks you,

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Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 2nd, 2017

Searun, I use all Sandisk Extreme Pro cards. Typically the 16-32GB versions.

dueckiOn Mar. 1st, 2017

Thank you for this excellent review! Do you use Back Button AF more often than the LCD Touch AF?
At the moment I’m using the touchscreen for focusing; therefore I don’t have to re-compose. But in the last days I’ve read a lot about Back Button AF and I’m curious.
Is the biggest benefit of using BB-AF that I’ve turned on AF-C all the time and can decide if I want AF-S or AF-C by holding/releasing the back button?

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Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 1st, 2017

Yes Duecki, you understand the reason for using Back Button AF. I will admit that having the ability to move the af sensor with our thumb via touching the screen does reduce the need for back button af. However, sometimes I shut the Touch Screen off and use just the middle af sensor with back button af. This is the way method I used on my Nikons for 20 years.

BlanketyblankOn Mar. 1st, 2017

Hello Dan,.. Based on your review of Panasonic Cameras and Lenses I am now the proud owner of GX8 with 14-140mm also G80 with Leica 100-400mm and I have to say I agree with you 100% . My Nikon/Sigma 150-600mm Combination sits in my lounge by the patio doors (with a sad face because I don’t take it out) and now I’ve got my back button AF set up also .

Thanks Blanketyblank.

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Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 1st, 2017

This is the way it starts Blanktyblank. I just recently sold my last D4 As well as my. Nikko 600mm F/4 and a few other Nikon items.

Jacques CornellOn Mar. 1st, 2017

I LIKE the rocker pad and almost never press it accidentally on my GX7. Putting those on the top deck would just be too many tasks for my trigger finger. What I do press accidentally on my GX7 is the Disp button, and that annoys me endlessly. But, it appears to be better positioned on newer models. I especially like the buttons on the GX8, with their little raised collars that make them easier to find by touch. I wish Panasonic had put these on the G85 as well.

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Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 1st, 2017

Good to hear you’re doing well with the rear rocker pad. Thaks for your input Jacques.

JoergOn Feb. 28th, 2017

Thanks for the nice review. I just got a G85 and love it so far. It is still not clear to me what the advantage is to use the AF lock button compared to pressing the shutter release half way. In both cases you press a button to set focus, recompose, and then take the picture. In one case you release the button (AF lock) to lock focus, in the other you hold the button, but can use the same button to take the picture. What am I missing? Or is this just personal preference?

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Daniel J. CoxOn Mar. 1st, 2017

Could be personal preference Joerg but most folks I introduce to the rear button AF never go back and don’t know how they lived without it. Sounds hard to belive but have actually had some of my students tell me this. Give it a try and see what you think over time. Thaks for writing in.

Tom BellOn Feb. 28th, 2017

Hi Daniel,

This is such a helpful review. Two reasons …it has helped me use my G7 more effectively ….and also underlines with IBIS and Weatherproofing …that living on Dartmoor this is worth the upgrade. Just want to say that your review perfectly dovetails with a dpreview review. So many things dont really make a difference but these things and the absence of a filter really do. Actually IBIS means so often that you can use a lower ISO and therefore loose the disadvantage from my Pentax of better High ISO function.
I will await the drop in price then change my G7 for this. As regards the next generation of 20 mp …this is much less important in my view … and I notice in some reviews the 16 mp in this camera is better than the 20 mp in th GX8 which has the filter.
So thanks for all your hard work. Much appreciated.
Put in my flickr …but I back up there

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Daniel J. CoxOn Feb. 28th, 2017

Thanks for the kind comments Tom. I’m glad I could be of help. I realized my reviews are not perfect but it’s appreciated when people are understanding of that and find what I can do helpful.

DauOn Feb. 27th, 2017

hi… i am going to buy the first camera for me.. and i prefer a good image quality…can you give me any suggestion ..??

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Daniel J. CoxOn Feb. 27th, 2017

Dau, for a first camera the G85 would be superb. You don’t mention if interchangeable lenses are necessary for you, you don’t mention if you need super compact size. I need more info to be really helpful. Pansonic had so many excellent models depending on your needs. Let me know and I’ll be happy to make additional suggestions.

Bill StormontOn Feb. 27th, 2017

Hi Dan,

I watched Mark Toal’s video on the Image App, and have a question he didn’t cover: can you use the Touchscreen option to Focus/Release (on an iPad, in this case) with one touch? For focus stacks, it’s a quick way to work.

Thanks for your honest writing and opinions!

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Mark ToalOn Feb. 28th, 2017

Hi Bill,

Thanks for checking out my video. Yes, you can focus and shoot with one touch using the wi-fi app. Just to the right of the where the image is displayed on the app there is a down arrow button. When you press it the window expands the window. You will see a symbol with a finger and a shutter button on the left side of the window. Touch it to turn it on. Now when you touch the screen is will focus and shoot the photo. Touch it again to turn it off.

I hope this helps.

HeydayOn Feb. 27th, 2017

“Olympus has done something similar with their Super Control Panel that has many more options than our Quick Menu option on the Panasonic cameras. Something similar would be a nice addition to our Lumix system.”

Didn’t Panasonic already do that? If you cycle through the display options using the Disp button, you should reach a touch-enabled screen that is very much like the Olympus SCP?

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Daniel J. CoxOn Feb. 27th, 2017

You are correct Heyday but there aren’t as many options as the Olympus. The Lumix has something similar but could use more access to deep menu items.

dennis lindenOn Feb. 26th, 2017

New Release of DxO 11 just last week supports G80/85 and ALREADY lists GH5

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Daniel J. CoxOn Feb. 27th, 2017

Wow, thanks for the update. I tried updating my DXO but did not see any to download. Will revisit the update site.Really appreciate the heads up.

jordan pawOn Feb. 26th, 2017

nice review. i’m thinking of adding a G85 to my GX85. does that sound redundant?

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Daniel J. CoxOn Feb. 27th, 2017

Not at all Jordan. They are two very different cameras. One a rangefinder and the other more of a traditional DSLR. Would be a great combination.

Daniel J. CoxOn Feb. 26th, 2017

Mike Cromwell one of our Natural Exposures Explorers wanted to add this comment to the ongoing dialog.

Dan:

Now that the GH5 deliveries are about to start and people who have not yet upgraded the firmware of their Panasonic lenses with Power OIS (mostly the 12-35 and the 35-100) will be more interested in upgrading the firmware for their lenses to work with the dual IBIS of the GH5, I thought that I would make one addition to your great upgrade posts. This is based on my own experience.

If anyone using Chrome clicks on the upgrade links and nothing happens, you should check whether you have the browser set to block popups. Go to your browser settings, click on advanced settings, under the privacy section click on the content settings button. This will show you your pop-up settings.

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Ed PaschalidisOn Feb. 26th, 2017

This is one of the better reviews I have read for any camera and from any source, I thoroughly enjoyed it, Thanks for posting the link on DPR.

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Daniel J. CoxOn Feb. 26th, 2017

Thanks Ed. Glad you enjoyed it. Stop by anytime to take part in th conversation. I appreciate your kind comments.

Fred KurtzOn Feb. 26th, 2017

Very nice in depth review Dan. I just recommended this camera to a friend based on your recommendations and he just got it. I forwarded him this review. Looking forward to the GH5 coming soon.

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Geoffrey HeardOn Feb. 26th, 2017

EXcellent review, Daniel. On its specs alone, I would rate the G80/85 to be the leading middle market camera, with the Olympus E-M1 II being the to of the pops. A combination of the Lumix menu system (I will never willingly return to the Oympus menus) and controls generally, features,and price points me at the G80/85 for my next upgrade (from a G6). The sad thing is that the G80/85 is markedly heavier and it comes only in black. I have a white G6, helpful in keeping temperatures down in the tropics where I am located.

Excellent pictures, by the way. Upgrading, I will be satisfied with the 100-300 II; I love the work I see with the Leica 100-400 but in honesty, I can’t justify the cost. Not a lot of wildlife for photographing (that rider is a key — there is plenty of wildlife, particularly birds, but there is also plenty of jungle!) around here.

Cheers, Geoff

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Panasonic LUMIX G85 Shooting Experience Huge Bang For The Buck

Panasonic LUMIX G85 Shooting Experience

A Review Based on My Kind of Photography

The First Unboxing and Under the Hood

A Metal Chassis

Serious Weather Sealing

Magnetic Electronic Shutter

In-body Image Stabilization (IBIS)

16 MP Micro Four Thirds CMOS Sensor

Low Light Is Micro Four Thirds’ One Achilles, Heel

Exposure Mode Dial

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Fn Buttons Galore

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Electronic Viewfinder AKA EVF

High-Speed Shooting

Economy Mode

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